In Search of Knownables: Natural dyes Tie Dye Malkha Ikat
In an effort to build Handloom Knowledge Commons, Dharmendar Vaddepalli (custodian of Malkha) organised a workshop where K. Narasimhalu (master tie-dye weaver from Koyyalaguddam), Odelu Vurugonda (master natural dyer and weaver from Chennur) and 6 weavers from Thangallapalli shared their knowledge with each other. This workshop resulted in textiles that have not been produced for many years. The norm in tie-dye weaves is to use synthetic dyes and mill spun homogeneous yarn of 60s count, that had been doubled for increasing weaving speed. By using natural dyes and organic cotton single yarn of 27s count that was spun in decentralised spinning units, these textiles weave together the knowledge of all these master-craftsmen. Over the month long workshop, Narasimhalu not only demonstrated the tie-dye techniques but challenged the weavers to design their own patterns. Narasimhalu had been dyeing the tie-dyed yarn with natural colours for decades, yet it was Odelu with his knowledge of the Indigo vat using the fermentation process, who could transfer it to dye the tied yarn in Indigo. One of the weavers, Bhoomaiyah apprenticed with Odelu for the next few months and learnt the basics of dyeing Indigo, alongside other natural colours. Finally, the Thangallapalli weavers who had long been considered a mere plain cloth weavers were able to demonstrate their knowledge of using singles yarn grown and spun locally, to weave complex tie-dye designs. Learning the tie-dye technique, where the tying, dyeing and weaving work in tandem, allowed the weavers to take back ownership of dyeing yarn that had been split into separate professions. This act of collective ownership of handloom knowledge provides a glimpse into the knownable - where knowledge and its ownership is not split.